Bathing and Grooming Dogs

Updated December 2024 · Reading time: 8 min

Some people bathe their dog every week. Others do it every two months. Who's right? It depends. On the type of coat, the dog's lifestyle, skin problems. There's no single answer.

What exists is common sense: dogs need hygiene, but don't need excessive bathing that dries the skin and removes natural protection. Let's understand better.

How often to bathe?

Dog type Suggested frequency
Short coat, urban life Every 4-6 weeks
Long coat, needs grooming Every 3-4 weeks
Dogs that play outdoors When dirty or every 2-3 weeks
Dogs with skin problems As per veterinary guidance
Nordic breeds (Husky, Malamute) Every 2-3 months (have self-cleaning coat)

If your dog isn't stinking, isn't dirty with mud or something like that, it probably doesn't need a bath. Your nose is a good guide. "Wet dog" smell after it dries indicates it might have been time, but a light dog smell is normal and doesn't mean dirt.

Bath at home: step by step

Bathing at home saves money and can be a bonding moment. Or it can be a wet disaster if you don't prepare. Some tips before starting:

Brush the dog before the bath. Tangled fur gets worse when wet. If there are knots, untangle first.

Separate everything you'll need before starting. Shampoo, towels, dryer if using. After the dog is wet, you won't want to run around getting something.

Prepare the environment. If in the bathroom shower, place a non-slip mat. A slipping dog gets nervous. Adjust water temperature: warm, never hot. Test on your wrist as you would with a baby.
Wet the entire dog, except the head. Use the shower or a container, starting with the body. Leave the head for last because it's the part that bothers them most and, once wet, most want to run off to shake.
Apply shampoo. Dilute in water if the package indicates. Spread over the body with massaging movements, not scrubbing hard. Don't forget the paws, belly and area near the tail.
Wash the head carefully. Use little shampoo, avoid getting it in the eyes and ears. Many people put cotton in the ears to protect, but if you're careful you don't need to.
Rinse very well. Shampoo residue causes itching and irritation. Keep rinsing until the water comes out completely clean. When you think you've rinsed enough, rinse a bit more.
Dry. Towel first, absorbing as much as possible. Then dryer on warm or cool temperature, never hot. Keep distance to not burn the skin. Long-haired dogs need more careful drying to not stay damp underneath.
Water in ears: If water gets in and you don't dry well, it can cause otitis. After the bath, use cotton or a soft cloth to dry the inside of the ear (only where you can see, never stick anything in the canal).

Products: what to use

Human shampoo doesn't work for dogs. Canine skin pH is different from ours. Using your shampoo on it can dry and irritate the skin. Buy shampoo specific for dogs.

Within dog shampoos, there are several options: neutral, moisturizing, for light coats, for dark coats, anti-flea, for sensitive skin. For most healthy dogs, a neutral or moisturizing shampoo works well.

Conditioner is optional. Helps in long-haired dogs to detangle and add shine. In short-haired dogs, usually doesn't make significant difference.

Dog perfume is just cosmetic, for your nose. The dog doesn't care, and some have very strong fragrances that can bother animals with sensitive smell.

Grooming: when and how

Not every dog needs grooming. Short-haired dogs like Labrador, Beagle, Boxer don't need it. You brush, bathe, and that's it.

Long-haired dogs or those with continuously growing hair, like Poodle, Shih Tzu, Yorkshire, Maltese, need regular grooming. Without grooming, the hair tangles, makes hygiene difficult and can cause skin problems.

Grooming at home or pet shop?

Hygienic grooming (genital area, paws, belly) you can do at home with a simple machine. It's basic maintenance between pet shop visits.

Complete grooming, especially breed-specific styles, is better left to a professional. Requires technique, adequate equipment and knowledge of patterns. A poorly done grooming can hurt the dog or leave it looking weird for weeks.

Never shave a double-coated dog (Husky, Golden, German Shepherd, Spitz). The undercoat has thermal insulation function for both cold and heat. Shaving can permanently damage the coat and doesn't help the dog cool down, contrary to what many people think.

Other hygiene care

Brushing

More important than bathing for many breeds. Removes dead hair, distributes natural oiliness, prevents knots and allows you to detect skin problems early.

Short coat: once a week with bristle brush or rubber glove.

Medium coat: two to three times a week with slicker brush.

Long coat: ideally every day, at minimum every other day.

Ear cleaning

Check ears weekly. Healthy ear is pink and without strong smell. If there's dark wax buildup, redness, bad smell or the dog keeps scratching, it may be infection.

For routine cleaning, use specific product. Put a few drops, massage the base of the ear, let the dog shake, and clean what comes out with cotton. Never use cotton swab inside the canal.

Nail trimming

Nails too long cause discomfort when walking and can even bend the toes over time. If you hear the nails clicking on the floor, it's time to trim.

Can be done at home with dog nail clipper. The trick is not to cut too much: inside the nail there's a living part (called "quick") that bleeds and hurts if cut. In light nails you can see this pink part. In dark nails it's harder, cut a little at a time.

If you cut too much and it bleeds: Don't panic. Apply pressure with cotton. Hemostatic powder (sold in pet shops) stops bleeding quickly. Cornstarch also works in emergency.

Dental hygiene

The subject almost everyone ignores. Dental problems are extremely common in dogs and cause pain, bad breath, difficulty eating and can affect organs like heart and kidneys if bacteria enter the bloodstream.

The ideal is to brush the dog's teeth. Yes, with brush and paste specific for dogs (human paste has fluoride, which is toxic to them if swallowed). Doesn't need to be every day, but a few times a week already helps a lot.

Alternatives include dental treats, chew toys and water additives. They're complements, don't replace brushing, but are better than nothing.

When something isn't right

During hygiene care, take the opportunity to examine the dog. Look for:

Lumps or masses on the skin that weren't there before. Most are benign, but worth checking with the vet.

Areas of hair loss, redness, scaling. May be allergy, fungus, parasites.

Fleas or ticks. Look especially behind the ears, in the neck area and at the base of the tail.

Persistent bad smell even after bathing. May indicate skin or ear infection.

Caring for the dog's hygiene is more than aesthetics. It's preventive health. And the more you handle it since puppyhood, the easier it becomes when adult.