Dog Feeding and Nutrition

Updated December 2024 · Reading time: 9 min

Food is one of the things that generates the most doubt in dog owners. Which food to buy? Can I give fruit? What about bones? How much is too much? How much is too little? Everyone has a different opinion, and the internet only complicates it more.

I'll try to simplify. There's no perfect universal diet, but there are principles that work for most dogs.

Commercial food: the base of feeding

For most owners, commercial food is the most practical choice. It's balanced, convenient and when you choose a good one, it meets all the dog's nutritional needs.

The Brazilian market divides foods into categories that, in general, reflect quality:

Economy: The cheapest. Uses low-quality ingredients, lots of corn, by-products. The dog needs to eat more to get necessary nutrients, and feces are usually more voluminous. Not recommended as main food.

Standard: One step up. Still has quite a bit of cereal, but protein is a bit better. It's the minimum acceptable for a healthy dog, but not ideal.

Premium: Good cost-benefit ratio. Reasonable quality protein, less filler. Most dogs do well with premium food.

Super Premium: High-quality ingredients, protein as first ingredient (not cereal), fewer artificial preservatives. Costs more, but the dog eats less quantity and benefits more.

Holistic/Natural: The top of the pyramid. "Human grade" ingredients, no GMOs, no dyes. High price, but high quality too.

How to read the label: Ingredients are listed in order of quantity. If the first is "chicken meat" or "chicken protein", good sign. If it's "corn" or "by-product meal", real protein is low. Be suspicious of foods that list several types of cereal separately (corn, rice grits, wheat bran) because added together they probably exceed protein.

Quantity: how much to give?

Every package has a table with the recommended amount by weight. It's a good starting point, but not an absolute rule. Active dogs need more, sedentary dogs need less. Neutered dogs usually need less than intact ones.

The best indicator is the dog's body. You should be able to feel the ribs with light pressure, but not see them. Viewed from above, it should have a visible waist. If ribs are too prominent, increase food. If you can't feel them at all, decrease.

About frequency: puppies eat more times a day (3-4 times until 4 months, then 3 times, then 2). Adults do well with 2 daily meals. Some owners give just one, but two helps maintain stable metabolism and prevents the dog from getting too hungry and devouring everything at once.

Human foods: can or cannot?

Some things can, some things absolutely cannot. The problem is that the line between "harmful" and "okay in moderation" confuses many people.

Generally safe

  • Carrot (raw or cooked)
  • Apple (without seeds)
  • Banana (in moderation)
  • Watermelon (without seeds)
  • Broccoli and cauliflower
  • Cooked pumpkin
  • Cooked chicken (without bones)
  • Cooked lean meat
  • White rice
  • Cooked sweet potato

Forbidden

  • Chocolate (any type)
  • Grapes and raisins
  • Onion and garlic
  • Avocado
  • Xylitol (sweetener)
  • Macadamia
  • Alcohol
  • Coffee and caffeine
  • Cooked bones
  • Raw bread dough
About chocolate: The darker, the more dangerous. Semi-sweet and 70% cocoa chocolate are the worst. White chocolate is the least toxic (still, avoid). If your dog ate chocolate, call the veterinarian immediately with information on how much and what type.

Fruits in general are ok as occasional treats, but don't overdo it because they have sugar. Always remove seeds from apples and pears. Melon, mango (without pit) and strawberry are safe. Avoid citrus fruits in excess because they can irritate the stomach.

Bones is a controversial topic. Raw beef bones are safer than cooked, because they don't splinter as much. But there's still risk of breaking teeth or causing obstruction. Cooked chicken bones are extremely dangerous because they splinter and can perforate the intestine. If you want to give bones, always supervise and prefer large recreational raw beef bones.

Natural feeding: is it worth it?

Natural feeding (NF) or BARF (raw food) has been gaining followers. The idea is to prepare the dog's food at home, with fresh ingredients and without industrial processing.

Potential advantages: you know exactly what you're offering, can adapt for dogs with allergies or specific problems, many owners report improvement in coat and feces.

Disadvantages: it's work, needs knowledge to balance correctly, costs more than commercial food in most cases, and if not done well can cause nutritional deficiencies.

If you want to try, don't simply start giving home food to the dog. Seek a veterinary nutritionist to create an adequate diet. Dogs have different needs than humans and a diet that seems healthy for us may not be complete for them.

Treats

Treats are great for training and pleasing, but shouldn't represent more than 10% of daily calories. It's easy to overdo it because they seem small, but they add up.

Industrial treats vary greatly in quality. Read the label just like you read the food label. Avoid those with bright artificial dyes.

Natural treats that work well: carrot pieces, apple cubes, small pieces of cooked chicken, frozen banana. Healthier and cheaper than industrial ones.

Beware of leftovers: Giving leftovers from your food isn't a treat, it's creating a problem. Besides potentially containing bad ingredients for the dog (onion, excess salt, fat), it teaches it to beg at the table. Once it starts, it's hard to stop.

Water

Seems obvious, but worth mentioning: clean and fresh water always available. Change at least once a day. Wash the bowl regularly because it creates slime at the bottom.

The amount of water the dog drinks varies. Hot days, more. After exercise, more. If it only eats dry food, more (because food has little moisture). Natural feeding or wet food reduces the need because it already has water in the food.

Drinking too much water can be a sign of problems (diabetes, kidney disease). If you notice it's drinking much more than normal without apparent reason, a consultation is worth it.

Problems related to feeding

Dog that doesn't want to eat

Can be just temporary nausea, stress, or sign of something more serious. If it skips a meal but remains active and well-disposed, don't worry. If it refuses food for more than 24 hours, especially if apathetic, seek a veterinarian.

Some dogs are "picky" because they learned that if they refuse the food, they'll get something better. If that's the case, the solution is to offer the food, wait 15-20 minutes, remove if it doesn't eat, and offer again only at the next meal. No drama, no negotiation. A healthy dog won't starve with food available.

Dog that eats too fast

Swallowing food without chewing can cause choking, vomiting, and in large deep-chested breeds, increases the risk of gastric torsion. Slow feeders (those with internal obstacles) help slow down. Dividing the meal into smaller portions also works.

Food allergies

Persistent itching, inflamed ears, excessive paw licking, chronic digestive problems... may be food allergy. The most common allergens are chicken, beef, wheat and soy.

Diagnosing food allergy is laborious. Involves elimination diet: weeks eating only one protein and one carbohydrate the dog has never eaten before (like duck and sweet potato), then reintroducing ingredients one by one to see which causes reaction. Requires patience and discipline.

In summary

Good quality commercial food is the base. Complement with healthy treats in moderation. Avoid forbidden foods. Adjust quantity by the dog's body, not just by the table. And when in doubt, veterinarian is always the best source of specific guidance for your dog.